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Sunny Day Puppies - Health Guarantee
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And just recently they came out with Taste Of The Wild for Puppies also!
Here is an article that I urge you to read on "Corn in Dog Food. Really?"
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/care/corndogfood.htm
Change the diet gradually over one or two weeks time. Please look at the ingredients of the food that you choose. Remember, “You are what you eat”! Dogs do not digest corn which is the first ingredient in many dog foods. That will also mean more of that corn coming right back out of the other end of your puppy - more clean-up!
Here are a couple links to good web sites that gives reviews & ratings on dog foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/
http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/
Puppy treats should be the nutritious things (read the labels) - remember, your puppy has a very small stomach & you don’t want them to fill it up on junk food. My favorite is chicken jerky - available at Walmart or any pet store.
(Be very careful that the chicken jerky is not made in China as there has been some recalls on those)
I have a real good book "How to Raise A Puppy You Can Live With" that I will be giving you. It comes highly recommended by Me & Dr Threllfall DVM (Head of OSU College of Veterinary Medicine). I studied Canine Theriogenology with him). Its a very good book.

I also highly recommend "How to Raise the Perfect Dog: Through Puppy-hood and Beyond" by Cesar Millan. Cesar AKA “The Dog Whisperer”. He is on National Geographic channel weekly Fridays at 9pm EST. (also every day around 2 or 3pm) Record it!
Flying your puppy? I have shipped puppies all over the U.S.A. without incident for years. I prepare them well!
The puppies are shipped in a climate-controlled pressurized cabin. They are given attention (I been told the flight crew sneaks down and play with them during their break!), They have food, treats, cheweys, and water available during their trip. (and of course toys to play with!)
They usually sleep the entire ride and bounce out of their travel crate refreshed and ready to play with their new family!
The travel crate is yours to keep and your manual/book will come with the crate, the health certificate, registration papers, etc. I will send more info/instructions before your pup leaves here & call you when he/she leaves on his trip.
See Comments from Folks who have Purchased my Puppies!
Your Sunny Day Puppy
We are proud that we have been raising extremely healthy puppies for a long time.
Our policy is:
My puppies have their DEW CLAWS removed at 5 days of age. Some tails have been docked but I am doing that less & less now, working towards leaving all natural tails. I believe that if god gave them tails, let them keep them! They need that wag! :)
They are wormed at 2/4/6/8 weeks of age.
They receive Ponazuril for coccidia prevention at 5 weeks of age and the day before they go to their new homes. This protects them from this opportunist infection for the next three weeks. After that, the puppy should not have a problem with this parasite.
I feed “Earthborn Puppy Vantage” food for the first few months. I recommend that you use “Taste of the Wild” after 6-12 months of age . If you want to switch to another brand, please use a top quality brand and make the change gradually.
At 6 weeks of age they receive their first set of puppy shots.
When they are eating fine and are weaned fully, then they are ready to come to your home soon after this time, leaving at 7/8 weeks if big enough.
You receive a record of vaccination, the puppy’s registration papers. And IF you have not purchased (in your haste to come get your "baby") any puppy food, I will give you a starter pack of food.
I do not crate or cage my dogs, but offer advice and help IF you wish to crate train your puppy. I feel that crating is mostly necessary for safety, in today’s world, for the puppy and dog. We have found alternatives to crating. AS LONG AS YOU CAN KEEP YOUR PUPPY AND DOG SAFE IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO FEEL THAT YOU MUST CRATE. Safety is the number one issue. A lot of individuals crate train and love it. And for some folks it is a necessity. It is up to you to evaluate your situation. We are open to discussion and I am sure your vet can discuss this with you as well.
Owning a New Puppy
1/ Before the puppy comes home, choose a Veterinarian. Ask other dog owners, friends and family members to recommend a vet to you. I think this is important. If you have an emergency in those first few days you will be prepared.
2/ Introduce your puppy to your other pets slowly. Be sure never to leave them alone until the puppy gets of a size to handle him/herself. You may think that your other pets will not harm your new puppy but do not trust them until they are well used to each other. Be sure not to neglect your other pets and give your new puppy all the attention. They will feel left out. Just like children, they can feel jealousy toward the new family member.
3/ Remember that your puppy is small and it might be a good idea to place a bell on his/her harness or collar until you get used to him/her being under your feet.
4/ AFTER you and your puppy have grown used to each other and the puppy has gotten adjusted to it’s new home, make sure you introduce him/her to many people. Introduce the puppy to other pets and take it in the car (even if it just around the corner). It is extremely important to socialize your new "baby". You want him/her to be as friendly as possible and this early socialization is critical.
5/ Begin training right away. "Come", "Stay" and "Sit" are three of the more important things to learn right away. You also need to teach the puppy to drop something that it picks up immediately on command. Some people use the command of "OFF". I have always used "RELEASE". IF your puppy should pick up something it shouldn’t this command is important.
6/ Do not give small puppies cow milk. A lot of people do so thinking that they are being kind. It will cause diarrhea.
7/Animal behavioral problems are usually owner related. I recommend watching “The Dog Whisperer”.
Puppy items to have on hand BEFORE you get your puppy:
NutraCal: For replenishing sugar level - see emergency puppy care below.
Food and water bowl: Dogs like a lot of water. Use bottled water mixed with your tap water for the first few days until the little one gets used to your water.
Sleeping Crate and/or Bed: Recommended is 18"w x 24" d. X 21" h. Crating is a great housebreaking tool but you shouldn’t ask the puppy to hold longer than he/she possibly can. See the book that I gave you. I usually tell folks not to expect complete house breaking until a puppy is 1 year. Until then there will be "accidents". If you are consistent, you can do it in 3 months.
Grooming supplies: Shampoo, brush, comb and etc. I like the metal combs with the rounded ends on the teeth. These work really well in the coat. Make sure it is not a flea comb though. These are too tiny a tooth to go thru the coat.
Nails will need clipped if your dog is not out on concrete where they can wear down. Vets or groomers can do this if you feel uncomfortable about clipping the nails. Pet stores sell very good sets of nail clippers with a safety guard so you do not take off too much nail.
Treats and Rewards: You will want to reward the puppy with a treat when it does well on command. ALL my dogs LOVE the chicken jerky!
Toys, Toys and more Toys: Puppies love their toys. Get bones, rawhides, pigs ears, & cow hooves. Gumabone and Dentabones are good too. And plenty of toys! :)?
Collar or Harness and a Leash: Make sure you can fit at least two fingers between the collar and the puppy’s neck when the collar is on.
Child type safety gate
Padding or Comfy bed for crate
Potty training pads with stickies on the bottom (I like the ones made for adult people beds - they are bigger & heavier)
Shampoo
Food "Eartyhborn, Puppy Vantage"
Treats & Cheweys like small "bullies", bones, rawhide sticks
SPAY/NEUTER
It used to be that most vets would not spay/neuter your pet until they were 1 year of age. Therefore, when choosing an inside pet, most people would pick a female pet. Females will "squat" to eliminate. And a male will lift it’s leg and urinate on your -- well--- "everything".
But we are fortunate that we live in the age we do. Veterinarian science has caught up with the medical world and are now able to spay/neuter at a younger age. This is NOT harmful to the pet and it is beneficial in the long run. Lower rates of cancers and most diseases IF you spay/neuter before they get of age. Females live longer IF they do not go thru any heat cycles. Spay/neuter at 5-6 months at least.
Males, if neutered early, will never know that they are male and will (usually) squat to urinate just like a female and makes it easy for inside training.
NEVER ADMINISTER ASPIRIN WITHOUT A VET’S INSTRUCTIONS.
NEVER GIVE AN ANIMAL NON-ASPIRIN ANALGESICS.
Even a healthy appearing puppy can have some form of parasite. When you get a new puppy, it's always a good idea to have a fecal exam done by your vet, even if the puppy just had one by the breeder's vet. I would have sold you the puppy in good faith, but as I mentioned, going to a new home can be stressful. That's when parasites are more evident, and easier for a vet to detect.
Don't forget about heartworm preventative for your new puppy! This can only be gotten from a vet, so you should discuss the different options with him or her.
Coccidia is not a worm. It is a microscopic internal parasite (protozoan). Coccidia can be stress-related. A puppy may have a negative fecal check result from a vet, appear perfectly fine, but show evidence of coccidia as soon as he goes to a new home. Albon, the prescription medication for coccidia, doesn't actually kill it. It washes the puppy's digestive tract, taking the coccidia with it. It's the puppy's own immune system that eventually will kill any remaining coccidia. A young puppy's immune system is not fully developed, so it takes time for the puppy and it's immune system to mature. Most adult dogs have coccidia, but they also have the antibodies to fight and control it. A puppy with coccidia that is not well cared for and not treated will eventually develop watery diarrhea and can dehydrate quickly! This is when coccidia can become a serious condition - the coccidia replicates unchecked, and the puppy can become very ill and die.
Puppies can also get Giardia. This parasite is also common, and more difficult to diagnose. It would probably not be detected by a vet using the normal "floatation" method of fecal screening. The “Snap test” tells if the puppy has been exposed to Giardia. It causes periodic diarrhea and loss of appetite & weight; a puppy with severe giardia is likely to die if very young and left untreated for 2-3 days. There is a vaccine for giardia manufactured by Fort Dodge.
Puppies get Tapeworms from fleas. A young flea will eat tape worm eggs, and puppies get tape worms if they swallow even just a single flea. The tapeworm is segmented and flat, so what you will see are small, flat, cream colored pieces less than a half inch long. The most common place to see them is in their poop. These moving pieces contain tapeworm eggs. When they're dry, they look similar to uncooked rice. Tapeworms can cause a loose stool.

EMERGENCY PUPPY CARE:
My puppies are very small, this does not mean that they are unhealthy but they are somewhat delicate at first.
Sometimes there is a "rebound" effect within 7-10 days of getting thier vaccinations, something in the shot will cause the pup to be ill and even after all of these years we have not been able to determine which of the ingredients is causing the symptoms. Sometimes this will occur even after the 2nd or 3rd shot so be observant. The puppy will show signs of not wanting to eat and then become listless. IF not treated the pup will go down hill fast and die. This may also happen anytime your puppy is stressed as with it’s first day in it’s new home, carsickness, etc. Remember the NutraCal.
Puppies stress at just being in a new environment. Their first couple days are going to be the toughest.
STRESS AND HOW IT CAN EFFECT YOUR PUPPY - Treatment
If your puppy is stressed or exhibits loss of appetite for example with carsickness. Treat the pup with "force feedings", making the little one eat off of a spoon or from a syringe - for a day or two until they start to feel better. Just like you would an ill child.
Nutri-Stat (or Nutri-Cal) is very important at times when the puppy is stressed. Give the Nutri-Stat 4 times a day, just enough to fit on half of a spoon. Maybe an inch worth at a time... If placed in the mouth it dissolves instantly and contains the ingredients and nutrients that the little ones need to maintain.
You can also make a "gruel" from Gerber baby chicken in the jar and Gerber baby rice cereal in the box. We mix these two together with just a ½ oz of puppy milk (not cow milk) - enough to wet -or water... and thin it so that it may be drawn up in a 3cc syringe (if you don’t have one - get it from your pharmacist or vet). Warm this mixture and place the blunt end of the syringe or use a baby spoon in the corner of the puppy’s mouth and hold it’s chin up with your other hand... Gently squeeze the warmed gruel a little at a time into it’s mouth... SLOWLY so that it may swallow and not choke. This is messy and sometimes the little one does not want to eat.. But it is important to get about 4-6 baby spoonfuls in or about 3-6 cc per feeding. Remember the antibiotic (if the little one develops diarrhea) these you can get from the vet. Most of the time the puppy will want to drink so you will not usually need to re-hydrate them. But the moisture in the gruel will also help.
The puppy will want to sleep a lot. This is okay as long as you can wake it with your voice and not touching it. Go by and say "How is Mommy’s baby?" And if they stir and raise their heads or stand and wag their tails then they are not too debilitated that they need major care.. IF they pass out or are unresponsive - give the NUTRI-STAT first - place about 1 inch of the Nutri-Stat on your finger and just place it on the roof of their mouth and close their mouth.. Hold their head up so that they will not choke. IT will dissolve immediately and trickle down their throats. They should stir with in just a few minutes (10-15 minutes) if they do not, head for the vets.
This "stage" of non-eating usually lasts just a few days and then you will notice that the little one is getting back into the food bowl. Even if they have been eating the hard puppy kibble they may now wish to have a soft puppy canned food or have the kibble wet just a little. Also we have found that they may not want any of the normal puppy foods. We have taken to the philosophy of "Whatever works" to just get them eating again. We use small bites of cooked ham, chicken or turkey, mixing canned food with a little cottage cheese, or regular fat yogurt. I have recovered a lot of puppies/dogs on this mixture.
Then one day they just go back to the hard puppy kibble bites.
With the very tiny puppy - we recommend that you split the shots at 3-4 week intervals. IF you give the tiny puppy the combination of a booster and a rabies together you may kill it.
Do talk to your vet about immunizing your puppy with Kennel Cough because you will be wanting to take this little one EVERYWHERE and it will be exposed to other dogs and areas where dogs will be.

WARNING SIGNS!
Call your vet immediately if you observe any of these warning signs:
PROLONGED LOSS OF APPETITE (Greater than 6 hours in a brand new puppy!)
EXCESSIVE WATER DRINKING and/or urinating every few minutes
EXCESSIVE SLEEPING OR LETHARGY (WEAKNESS)
VOMITING, DIARRHEA, STRAINED URINATION
LIMPING
RUNNING EYES OR NOSE ( PUPPIES CAN HAVE A CLEAR WATER SPRAY FROM THEIR NOSE AND EYES, BUT IF IT TURNS YELLOWISH OR GREENISH THEN WORRY!)
SNEEZING, COUGHING, WHINING
SIGNIFICANT CHANGES IN BEHAVIOR
Remember to give NutraCal before and after any event that you know will be stressful, like a visit to the vet or bath.
I am only a phone call away or an email away. Your little one is precious to me as well.
FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
Feed your puppy at least 4 times a day for the first month. I recommend Earthborn Puppy Vantage, Taste of the Wild. These have small nuggets and normally they do just fine with it. I also feed them HIGH QUALITY canned dog food so they are used to eating that also. Sometimes a puppy is stressed due to changing environments and won't eat enough the first week. If that happens, you’ll be prepared, you will be giving NutriCal or NutraStat and they will always eat the canned food. The NutriCal will provide vitamins, nutrients and sugar plus stimulate his appetite for the next meal. They will have been eating dry food alone before they leave here but this may reverse temporarily with the stress of their new home. Make sure your puppy has access to water ALL DAY LONG. At 12 weeks of age, you can start picking up the water and food bowls at night to aid in potty training but have food and water accessible all day if you aren't there.
If you have to leave your puppy home alone all day, leave about 1/2 cup of Puppy food down while you are gone. Also, before you leave, feed him a heaping tablespoon of canned and again when you come home. Keep him in a small enough area so he can easily find his food and water. First week, give Nutri-Cal Supplement before you leave and when you return home from work.
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PLAYING WITH YOUR PUPPY
Make sure you do not play with your puppy more than one hour at a time. They MUST get plenty of rest for the first month after you bring your puppy home. Never wake up a puppy to play.
Do NOT throw your puppy in the air or move his head quickly in a playful manner. Remember, your puppy is very tiny and should be treated like you would a premature human baby you have just brought home from the hospital. A mistake new owners usually make is playing with their puppy too much. Too much activity will deplete their blood sugar!! You could have a very sick puppy on your hands. Be patient. The first few weeks will go by quickly and their playtime will increase. If it does happens - you will be prepared with NutraCal!
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BEDDING
Provide a safe, quiet and warm place for your puppy to sleep that is out of drafty areas such as a bedroom with a ceiling fan. This can be a baby playpen or any small area that has been partitioned off so your puppy can't wander out. NEVER LEAVE YOUR PUPPY IN A SMALL CRATE DURING THE DAY. Your puppy will need an area for sleeping/playing, to potty and for food and water. An area the size of a baby playpen is fine. When you first get your puppy, let them sleep in this area. Leave down food and water for them during the night. A puppy younger than 12 weeks of age sometimes has a hard time holding it all night long. After about 12 weeks of age, you can start putting them in the crate you received your puppy in at night time. No food/water is necessary in this small crate. Take them to potty right before bedtime and first thing in the morning, possibly once during the night if he awakes and whines. Never leave your puppy outside by himself.
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NUTRI-CAL or NUTRI- STAT SUPPLEMENT
Give your puppy 1" or 1cc of NutriCal every 8 hours for it's first 5 days WITHOUT FAIL!!! If you forget to do this, your puppy could get very sick and might even die. If you are gone 8 hours a day, you can give 1cc before you leave and 1cc when you get back home. After 10 days and your puppy is settled in to their new home and eating regularly, just give the NutriCal at night. Continue this until the tube is empty. This will ensure your puppy gets the nutrients they need for healthy growth. Nutri Cal, available at pet supply stores, is the supplement of choice for a missed meal. Your puppy will probably lick the NutriCal off of a spoon but if not.... Put some on your finger and open the puppy's mouth- put it on the roof of his mouth like peanut butter. IT melts almost immediately so you will not choke the puppy.
If you ever find your puppy is difficult to wake up, wobbly or glassey eyed, give 1cc or 1" of NutriCal. Repeat. If no improvement after 10 minutes, repeat again & go immediately to a vet.
Anytime you have to take your puppy to a vet for other than routine exams, during the time your puppy is under contract (1 year), I ask that you please call and tell me what is going on. I am not a vet, but I have been watching every move your puppy has made since birth and there is a good chance I can help.
Remember, I am always just a phone call away.

SAFE AREA: Either a baby or puppy playpen or baby gate to partition a small area. It should be large enough to hold a little bed, a play area, small dish for food and water, with enough room left over to relieve themselves if necessary. Puppies can get into lot's of trouble if they are left unsupervised, so it is necessary to put them in a playpen or other small confined area to keep them safe. This is just a temporary place until the puppy is older and doesn't need quite so much sleep, less mischievous and hopefully housebroken! Many folks use the SUPER YARD GUARD purchased at K-Mart in the baby section.
PUPPY PROOF YOUR HOUSE: Just as you would for a child or baby! You need to move all houseplants, electrical cords, household cleaning supplies, or anything else dangerous near floor level that a small puppy could possible chew on or be harmed by.
CHEW TOYS: It is a good idea to have on hand several types of toys and chew toys to help keep your puppy amused and away from things he shouldn't chew on. Young puppies seem to especially like soft stuffed toys to chew on and sleep with. It is also a good idea to give your puppy some harder teething bones, pigs ears, cow hooves and chewey toys too. But remember to only purchase toys that are safe for puppies!
Whether picking up your puppy in person or greeting them at the airport, here is a list of a few helpful things to bring with you:
1. It is really better to travel with the puppy in a secure travel crate in case of an accident. The crate your puppy arrives in is yours to keep for car travel and night crating during the house training period. Many puppies will continue to freely go into the crate to sleep with door left open.
2. Something absorbent such as paper towels in case of car sickness or other mistakes. Moist baby wipes are also great to have on hand for quick clean ups.
3. A soft towel or baby blanket for your puppy to snuggle in. The one in puppy's crate may get soiled.
4. A small bottle of bottled water and a shallow bowl for drinking, in case your puppy gets thirsty.
5. Nutri-cal - You will be given a tube or baggie of NutriCal as we have gone over already. You will need it for the car trip, as he/she may have car sickness.
Once you get your puppy home, here are some things to know that will help your pup get acclimated:
1. Be courteous! If you receive your puppy by plane, once you get home and settled , please give me a call or email and let me know that your puppy arrived safely. I spend many hours raising these babies as my own children and I really worry about their safety!! Also if you pick them up in person, please drop me an e-mail or give me a quick call to let me know how your puppy is getting along.
2. Remember that puppies are still babies and need their rest. Place them in their playpen or crate after 1 hour of play time so they may rest and eat and drink in peace.

3. Take your puppy to the 'well visit' check up. Hopefully you have scheduled this appointment before the puppy arrives. You have a few days to have your puppy checked out by your own veterinarian and to return it for an exchange if anything serious is found. This is a precautionary physical to make sure that your pup is in good health. Make sure that you bring your puppy's shot record with you so your vet will know their medical history.
4. Get your vet to schedule your puppy's shots. Every vet has a different schedule, but most shots are given every 3 weeks until the series is complete. Remember, until your pups immunizations are complete, make sure to hold your new pup in your lap and keep them away from other dogs and off the floor at the vets. This also means not letting strangers or children pet your puppy in the vets office. This is how many diseases such as parvo are spread and these diseases can be deadly for your puppy.
4. Training should start immediately. However, remember it is sometimes not easy for a puppy younger than 12 weeks of age to 'hold it' all night long. The more time that you spend with your dog, the smarter they will become. NEVER STRIKE OR SCREAM AT YOUR PUPPY. NOR DO YOU SHOVE THEIR NOSE IN THEIR FECES OR URINE. My puppies are specifically bred for intelligence and respond very well to a firm NO NO! Puppies can be sensitive. Mistreat them and you could break their spirit. They may never fully trust you again.
5. Set a date to have your pup spayed or neutered. There are many health benefits to spaying and neutering and neutering a male at a young age will eliminate his desire to mark territory and usually prevent leg lifting altogether.
6. Never leave your puppy outside alone! Even if you have a fenced in area. Tiny puppies can easily slip through the mesh of a fence. A hungary hawk can have a small puppy for lunch.
7. The most important thing, is just to give your new pet a lot of love and attention. If it is quiet in your home, there is nothing wrong with cuddling your puppy in your lap (with their blanket) while you relax and watch a movie. This can actually be quite comforting to your puppy and help to establish a wonderful bond with you and your puppy that will continue to grow and last forever. And remember to keep in touch, as we enjoy hearing how our babies do and we just love photos!!!
Note: I do not reccommend vaccinating for Lepto - this does more harm than good.
If your vet wants to give a rabies vaccination along with the 5-in-1 at 16 weeks....you would be well advised to seek the care of a veterinarian who is more familiar with very tiny puppies. Some treat all puppies the same but the tiny puppy is a different class than the standards. Just as you would not treat a std poodle the same as you would a toy poodle. BE CAREFUL Too many vaccinations at the same time can be deadly to your pet.
Heartworm and flea protection -Heartworm preventative medicine is recommended for prevention of heart and most intestinal worms. (Consult your veterinarian) There are heartworm pills on the market that also take care of fleas so you can eliminate a lot of the other treatments. I use Revolution for fleas.
Article on "Reverse Sneeze":
"My dog has spells where she snorts and gasps while taking deep breaths, panting in between. Sometimes the spells last 10 minutes or more and happen a couple of times a day. Then she might not have one for another month or more. What is this and what do I do?"
It sounds as if you are describing what many veterinarians refer to as a "Reverse Sneeze". The formal term for the behavior is paroxysmal respiration. It occurs more often in small breeds or breeds with small heads, such as Lhasa Apso and the Boston Terrier, but any dog can experience it. It usually occurs as an isolated event, no more than once or twice a day, and the dog is normal as soon as it is over. No one is sure what causes it, although dogs with allergies or upper-respiratory infections seem more affected. As long as it’s not making your dog terribly uncomfortable, there’s no reason to worry. If your dog seems distressed while it is happening, try gently placing a finger over each of her nostrils so that she can’t breathe through her nose and must use her mouth. This creates a vacuum in the sinuses and seems to relieve many dogs. (I try and hold the dog and say soothing things to them to calm and quiet them down. EB) If the problem is more severe or if you see discharge from her nose when this happens, have your veterinarian examine her. An antihistamine provides relief to many dogs with this condition: your veterinarian can prescribe an appropriate one.
Leslie Sinclair, DVM